Printing photos doesn’t have to be hard. With Aperture in particular, you can
print excellent images with minimal effort. That’s not to say that you can’t
tweak settings further to achieve the utmost quality. But for the bulk of my
output, I use this easy-to-follow system and throughly enjoy what I’ve seen
emerge from my Epson Stylus R2000 photo printer.
The following steps will work with current Epson photo printers and can
be easily adapted to Canon models, too. The workflow is based on the
improvements that these manufacturers have made to their printer software. So if
you haven’t fired up your inkjet printer lately because printing with it has
been too frustrating, consider giving it another shot.
When it’s time to print, you want quick access to your best stuff. That’s
one of the reasons I’m a big fan of using star ratings. Peruse your highly rated
images and choose one that you would consider hanging on the wall.
Choosing the image: Photos look great on my computer. But
I’d like to know how this image might look on my wall. If you’re printing 13 by
19 inches as I am for this article, then I recommend that you work with a
16-megapixel image or larger. If you have 4900 pixels on the longest side of
your picture, then you should be in good shape. Pictures of more than 5000
pixels on the longest side are welcome if you have them.
Before a printing session, I always check the Display Profile for my
MacBook Pro’s 15-inch Retina display (launch System Preferences and choose
Displays > Color). I have a few special profiles I’ve created for other
purposes, but for printing I use the default Color LCD. If you’re having a
problem with accurate on-screen color, you may want to try a calibration unit
for your computer. Just make sure it’s compatible the type of screen you have.
For my Retina display Mac, the Color LCD profile works just fine.

Display profile: I’ve had very good luck using the default
Color LCD profile for my MacBook Pro’s 15-inch Retina display. Next, I go back
to Aperture and enable onscreen proofing (View > Onscreen Proofing) and
choose the appropriate Proofing Profile for the inkjet paper I’m using. Finally,
I set the brightness for my display about two notches below full brightness. Why
do I do that? Well, the MacBook Pro display is backlit and very luminescent. The
print I’m about to make will be viewed with reflective light, which is much
different. Dropping my screen brightness a notch or two helps me bridge the gap
between backlit and reflective art.
On-screen proofing: Turning on Onscreen Proofing helps
align the image I see on my Mac with the picture that comes out of the printer.
Now it’s time to print!
Choose Print Image from the File menu and click the More
Options button in the lower left corner. By doing so, you’ll have the tools
you need to fine-tune your output. At the top of the dialog box are a handful of
presets. Choose Standard for your first image.
Basic print setup: The first group of settings in the
Aperture print dialog box should be familiar to anyone who has made photo prints
before. In the Printer pane below the presets, choose your printer and the paper
size you wish to use. For the first image, I’ll print borderless, I’m choosing
13 x 19 Sheet Feeder Borderless. The paper size depends on the kind of
output the printer supports, so not every printer will have the same options. In
the next pane, Layout, set the orientation and image size. You can choose the
specific paper size from the pop-up menu, or go with Maximum to Fit, as I
did here.
Once you have the basics in place, jump down to the Rendering pane.
Here’s one of the most important changes with modern inkjet printers: You can
choose Printer Managed from the Color Profile pop-up menu. In the past I
had to work with ICC profiles. But the current Epson technology has made this
part of the process much easier. And since I know I have a big enough file for
this output (thanks to my 16-megapixel image), I can choose Auto from the
Print Resolution pop-up menu.
Now click the Print button. Aperture will prepare the job and hand
it off to your printer. We’re not done quite yet. The Epson will have a few more
questions, so it presents its own print dialog box. The only area I really
concern myself with is thr Printer Settings pop-up menu in the middle of the
dialog box.
Printer settings: The Epson has a few follow up questions
for me that it presets in its own dialog box. Select the type of paper that’s
loaded in the printer via the Media Type pop-up, choose color, or as in my
case, AccuPhoto HG, for print mode. In the Color Mode pop-up menu, I
go with Epson Vivid, but you also have the option for sRGB or Adobe RGB.
Generally speaking, you will also get very good results with Adobe RGB.
I recommend choosing Best Photo from the Output
Resolution pop-up and turning off High Speed for the final print
(however, I often use it with the first print and can’t really tell a
substantial difference in quality). The click the Print button.
More than half the time, the first image that emerges from the printer is
good, and I stop right there. If I do need to make a few small adjustments,
however, I can using the Image Adjustments pane. The sliders here for
Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, and Sharpen affect only the print job, not the
original image itself.
Fine-art borders: I can fine-tune my output using Image
Adjustments. Plus, if I want, I can add fine-art borders using the Margins
settings. Once I find the correct adjustments, I can save these settings by
clicking the gear menu at the bottom of the dialog box and selecting Duplicate
Preset. Give your new preset a descriptive name so you’ll recognize it when
you return.
I’ll conclude our printing exercise with a tip. One of my favorite tricks
is to set extra-wide margins, such as 1.5 inches. This will float your photo in
the center of the paper, giving it a classy art gallery appearance, but without
your having to cut mats.